Digging up an odd-shaped fungal growth from the roots of a tree, which has a smell that apparently sends pigs into a state of sexual arousal, hardly sounds like the basis for an enticing gourmet meal.
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However, what can be achieved with the revered black truffle is nothing short of extraordinary.
Chef Patrick Reubinson of Stroudover Cottage at Bemboka has just hosted his final truffle dinner for the season.
At Patrick’s invitation, I joined Ian Campbell from About Regional and our partners for what turned out to be an eye-opening, and mouth-watering, night.
Truffles are fungi that grow on the roots of certain oaks and hazelnut trees. Given their tricky growing conditions, seasonal scarcity, unusual harvesting methods – and above all their highly sought-after nature – the small black blobs can fetch up to around $4.50 a gram in some markets.
Yes, that’s $4500 a kilo!
So heading into a 10-course degustation menu, with all four of us never having tried a truffle dish before, was rather daunting.
The truffle-infused iced vodka aperitif to get the night underway was the perfect – pun intended – ice-breaker though.
What followed was a fascinating showcase of this pungent accentuator of gourmet dishes.
It lent flavour and body to a consomme and quail’s egg yolk shot, was grated into a glorious seafood soup-slash-pie, turned mushy peas into a silver spoon experience with scallops, and made mincemeat of the idea of steak with mushroom sauce when a plate of truffle-braised beef cheeks on truffled mashed potato hit the table for main course.
For flavour, the layered seafood with truffle and pâte feuilletée – a fancy term for fish pie – was by far my favourite dish.
However, for creativity, there was something distinctly Blumenthal-esque about our second course. Duck liver pate with truffle slivers was coated with clarified butter and shaped like an ice-cream, with a side of rich Cumberland sauce and croutons, all presented in a carved and polished wood burl fashioned for this one specific purpose.
Any wonder it was called “Duck liver goes Gaytime” (think the Streets ice-cream variety)!
Not only was it a wonderful dinner and unique experience, much of what Patrick prepared utilised the best produce this region has to offer.
The black truffles were from Braidwood, but Patrick also pointed to a budding truffiere on Indians Head near Bemboka as a potential source in seasons to come.
That such a gourmet foodie experience is available in the Bega Valley – let alone out the back of Bemboka where there’s not even any traffic noise – is a real coup.
It won’t be to everyone’s taste – whether because of the truffles or the price tag – but with his focus on local produce, outstanding bespoke menus, and intimate atmosphere of a personally catered dinner for four in the Stroudover Cottage B&B, Patrick’s truffle dinner is an experience of a lifetime.
While the limited truffle dinner season is now over, Stroudover Cottage offers year-round bespoke dining packages, as well as cheese-making and smallgoods workshops.
Contact Patrick on 6493 0441 or email stroudover1@bigpond.com.
Why truffles? What’s the attraction?
“For anyone who’s tasted a truffle, they know the answer immediately,” Patrick enthuses.
“I can’t wait for the season. The aroma gets everywhere – it’s earthy, nutty...it’s seductive.
The truffle season in Australia runs from around mid-June to early August only, making their arrival on chefs’ ingredients lists a looked-for treat.
“In itself that makes it special and keeps the mystique,” Patrick said.
He said the truffle was always a guarded item in the head chef’s office with only their hands allowed to work with the black gold.
It was this “mystique” that first drew Patrick to the truffle, a love affair that continues to this day if his faraway look any time they are mentioned is any indication.
With Australia’s growing interest in truffiere – truffle farms – and the winter harvest complementing the northern hemisphere’s off-season, truffles are becoming more popular and widespread – “but they are still magical”.
When it comes time to harvest, specially trained dogs will sniff out the underground gem and digging them up “becomes a surgical operation, almost archaeological in nature”.
“But when you have a 217-gram truffle – the largest I’ve been lucky to find – that’s nearly $1000 in your hand and it’s pure excitement.”
- The writer attended as a guest of Stroudover Cottage